bula, bula nacula island!
Of the 332+ islands that make up the country of Fiji, there is one little set of twenty that most travelers will tell you is an absolute must-see: the Yasawa Islands.
After our first few days exploring the main island of Viti Levu, we woke up bright and early to (sadly) depart First Landing and head to the port at Denarau.
Though there are a variety of plane and boat charter options, the best bet for the budget-conscious is to book your Yasawa Transfers through South Sea Cruises. SSC is the company that also oversees Awesome Adventures—a super backpacker-friendly option that allows you to island hop using one of their “Bula Pass” itineraries. As we were going to be spending most of our time on Nacula Island and one night on Yasawa Island, we decided to forgo the full pass experience. However, almost every other backpacker we met on our time in the Yasawas was using the Bula Pass, and it’s definitely the best bang for your buck, as they say. (Who actually says that with a serious face, though? Anyone?)
Because the boats are all under the SSC umbrella, you could end up on either the big yellow boat or a white SSC ferry, which we later took back to Denarau. Both were basically the same: super comfortable, spacious and really clean. This is important because it’s a pretty long day of travel—especially if you go out as far as Nacula Island… which, obviously, we did. Just keeping our travel days long and tiring, as per usual.
Though we’ve heard that the views via seaplane are killer, the boat views weren’t too shabby, either:
After about six hours on the boat (three of which had a pretty solid wi-fi connection!), we finally arrived… in the middle of the ocean. Instead of wasting time going up to each island for individual drop-offs, the ferry stops in the middle the South Pacific. The boat stops about 12 times along the way, and each time, tiny little aluminium boats float up along side, with a few members of the nearby resorts waving and cheerfully greeting their guests with a hearty “BULA!” as they caught people’s backpacks being flung from the ferry onto the small boats. Then, once the luggage was loaded up, the travelers would hop from the ferry… into the smaller boats. It all felt very absurd, but given how remote each island resort was, there was no other option.
Finally, our resort was called and we were headed off to Oarsman’s Bay Lodge in a rickety little boat with our captain and a man named Tui.
After an extremely choppy ride from the ferry to Nacula Island, we had arrived… and were promptly greeted with a welcome song & drink from Tui and the rest of the Oarsman’s family. Obviously, the warmth & hospitality from the main island had made it out to the Yasawas as well.
Though Nacula Island is tiny, it does share the beach with one other resort–the Blue Lagoon Beach Resort. The hubs and I popped over there to grab some wifi toward the end of our time at Oarsman’s (one thing the resort was lacking), and it was gorgeous. Definitely a great option if your budget is higher… though I felt that the beach and view from the Oarsman side of the bay trumped Blue Lagoon’s.
Aside from one trip out to the Sawa-I-Lau cave (TOURIST TRAP ALERT), most of our time at Oarsman’s was the same… perfectly and completely relaxing. Meals were set for three times per day, and everyone staying at the lodge gathered together to sit at one table. As it was the off season, we shared the grounds with only one other couple one night, and never more than eight during our three nights. The best part? Almost everyone was a backpacker–totally disproving the idea that Fiji is far too expensive for people on a budget. It’s definitely at the higher end: about $130/night USD if you’re staying in a dorm, but this includes the meal plan, which is required everywhere in the Yasawas due to how remote everything is.
In between meals (which I will say… were very hit or miss, but unfortunately, your only option), we spent the days just lounging on the beach, reading in the hammock in front of our bures, and enjoying more killer sunsets:
On our first night, a group of German guys who were celebrating their last night at Oarsman’s asked Tui (the clear heart of the Oarsman’s operation) if we could all drink kava together. Knowing that this was an important part of Fijian culture, the hubs and I were in for the experience.
We watched the guys gather together behind the kitchen and mash a giant kava root into a fine powder, and then mix the brown powder with water. There’s not much of a drinking culture among Fijians, and kava is their alternative to this. Instead of making you feel tipsy or altering your mind in any way (at least from what we understood), it just kind of makes you sleepy and a little tingly/numb.
The result:
Yep, muddy water. It tasted pretty much exactly how it looks. After one shot each, our faces had gone sufficiently numb and we were good to just sit back and watch the guys from the resort sing a few songs and relax as they continued to pass the bowl around.
This feeling of community continued through our entire time at Oarsman’s–from the afternoon volleyball games, to the morning rundown of activities, to the ceremony on our last night that involved traditional songs and dances.
Oarsman’s was another hard place to leave, mainly because by the last night, the staff felt like family. They all gathered around us on our last morning and waved goodbye as we boarded the small wooden boat and headed for our next stop: Yasawa Island Resort, the furthest resort in the Yasawas.
xo!
the romantic
Psst… thanks to South Sea Cruises for our free transfers to & from the Yasawas and to Oarsman’s Bay Lodge for offering us a discounted media rate for our three nights in a double bure. All opinions are, as always, my own.
18 Comments
Kieu ~ GQ trippin
I wish we had a longer delay than just half a day in Fiji… :T All the more reason to add it to our next trip. I’d have the muddy water if it helps me sleep at night. LOL
Kieu ~ GQ trippin recently posted..Thailand: Travel Costs & Highlights
Lazy Travelers
hahaha it just might! it really just made me feel tingly/numb and then i wished it were beer. or wine.
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Charli l Wanderlusters
Sounds like quite a trip. I think it’s great when you have to travel so far off the beaten track to get to paradise, it makes it all the more paradisaical in my eyes, as though it’s been forgotten an you’re the only ones who know about it.
Charli l Wanderlusters recently posted..Applying Sunscreen in the Whitsundays
Lazy Travelers
totally agree!
Lazy Travelers recently posted..one night in paradise: @yasawaresort
Leah Travels
You just keep rubbing this Fiji place in my face. I’m not reading one more word you write about that place. You hear?
Leah Travels recently posted..A Culinary (and Wine) Crawl of Paris’ Latin Quarter
Lazy Travelers
well then my next post is going to just be a series of amazing fijian beach photos and it’s going to be titled, “making bitches jealous, eryday.”
Lazy Travelers recently posted..one night in paradise: @yasawaresort
Kathryn
How long does it take to walk around the island or from one end to the other? Must be amazing to be on an island with such a small number of people. Looks very friendly and relaxing.
Kathryn.
Kathryn recently posted..6 Things That Have Surprised Us About Hawaii
Lazy Travelers
hahaha timing such a thing would have required me to leave my hammock and that is just crazy talk.
Lazy Travelers recently posted..one night in paradise: @yasawaresort
Tamara (@Turtlestravel)
Looks like such a beautiful place! We’ve made a note, and added it to the “someday” section of our bucket list. Thanks for sharing!
Tamara (@Turtlestravel) recently posted..Southwestern Landscapes
Lazy Travelers
cannot recommend it enough, and it really is soo feasible to do on a budget! xo
Lazy Travelers recently posted..one night in paradise: @yasawaresort
D.J. - The World of Deej
Definitely my kind of paradise. I’ve done the tender to shore a couple times in the Caribbean and you’re right…the whole process is a little absurd:)
D.J. – The World of Deej recently posted..The Iguanas of St. Thomas – Picture of the Week
Lazy Travelers
i’ve never heard “tender to shore” before! sounds so profesh.
Lazy Travelers recently posted..one night in paradise: @yasawaresort
Traveling Ted
And you are jealous of a goofy bunch of people drinking in an apartment in Toronto? This is the life right here. We will all be doing shots of tequila and drinking copious amounts of beer wishing we were RTW and not RWTBEX.
Traveling Ted recently posted..A new passport, ten years of traveling, and Toronto #RWTBEX bound
Lazy Travelers
hahaha ok, ok. fair enough. BUT i just wish that tbex was in thailand instead and then we could all meet there?
Lazy Travelers recently posted..style spotter: malaga, spain
Lola DiMarco
Jealous!
Now TBEX in Thailand? That would be interesting…
Lazy Travelers
i mean i think we should have at least CONSIDERED this. but i guess you guys had fun in toronto anyway 🙂
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Freya
That kava drink looks nasty! I don’t know if I can have even a sip of that. I find $130 per day in a dorm room a bit steep. But I guess it’s worth it?
Lazy Travelers
kava is all part of the experience 🙂 we couldn’t leave without trying it!
and i definitely agree that it’s a bit steep, but that does include three meals per day. given the location, i’d say it’s worth it–plus, it’s very possible that other resorts offer cheaper options than that. thought this was a good benchmark!
Lazy Travelers recently posted..hostel hopping in new zealand